Welt-attaching method and product



n. 4 27. 1,612,940 J. R. OLIVER WELT ATTACHING METHOD AND PRODUCT Filed Nov. 21, 1925 2 sheets-sheet 1 Jan. 4, I 4

J. R. OLIVER WEbT ATTIACHING METHOD AND PRODUCT Filed Nov. 21, 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jag), 4/.

11v VE1V TOR M ATTORNEV Patented-hind, 1927. i

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

i JOHN noonn OLIVER, or mnnrmnmunssncnusnr'rs, assronon r BEECE anon mncrmmar comrm, or nosrorr, 'MASSAOHUSETTS, A conron n'rron or mum.

WELT-ATTAOHING METHOD AND PRODUCT. Application filed November 21, 1925. Serial No. 70,589;-

This invention is anovel welt attaching combination and detail herein illustrated or method, and the product thereof. Theindescribed. vention relates especially to the manufacture In the accompanym drawings Fig. 1 may of shoes by the welt system and involves an be considered a right and elevation of the improvement-in the. method by which the parts of a welt stitching machine immediwelt strip is attached or stitched to the shoe ately surrounding the stitching point, with 0 upper and the lip of the insole. While the the shoe and welt indicated in fore-and-aftmethodof the present invention is independcross section, 1t being understood thatlhe ent of any particular mechanism, it is adaptwork, as usual in such machines, is fed proed to be carried out, on shoe stitching magresslvely from the erson viewing Fig. 1, chines of the well known type knownasweltthat is in a leftwar direction to a person jand-turn stitching machines by a proper standing at the front of the machine. This modification of the mode of handling and view, like the others, is diagrammatic in presenting the welt to the work and manipu character. lating the coo erating instruments. I F 1g. 2 1s a vlew similar to Fig. 1, but show- The general object of the present invenmg f wer of the mechanical parts, and 7 .ion is to improve the mode of assembly and showing them in a difierent stage of operarttachment of the welt, upper, and sole lip, tlon \p as well as the'resulting product or shoe. A lg- '3 sho s a slmilar section of a shoe particular object is to dispense with a cerafter attachment of the welt and removal tain factor usually employed in the 'ma from the machlne, and w1th the elements at facture of welted shoes, namely the beveling the left side shown trimmedand reshaped of the welt previous to its attachment, conp p ry to hg g he Insole and applysisting in-removin the diagonal corner of t 'o v the welt between t e attaching stitches and g en 7 are agrams illustratthe edge of the welt, by whi h th lt i mg the prevailing methods of the prior art, n bled to be tilt d away fr th h and the present inventlon compared thereper, about the bevelcorner as a center, and w th, in principle. thus satisfactorily brought into fiat condi- The Shoe, lr ng the Welting operatlon, tion, for the attachment of the outsole. The may be occupied by a woodenlast. An outioeveling involves a loss of material, to th wardly projecting lip w is previously formed 86 extent of the entire width of the beveled n the insole w and a fabric lining a2 may 7 margin of the welt. The present invention e employed, covering. the outer surface of dispenses not only with the beveling operah in ole. and x ending into the channel 1 tion, itself an added expense in the manufac under the lip :21, for reenforcement purposes,

ture of ashoe, but, by dispensing with the bevs a a y ell understood. The shoe upper eled edge, eifects a material saving in leather. CU Surrounds he Wo den last, with its edges For-example if one tenth of the width be lasted around against the outer marginsof saved this amounts to ten per centsaving in the insole. and in face contact with the inleather used, a very considerable item in the 8018 he In the Welt w ng machine these long run. A narrower width of welt strip assembled parts are fed progressively past can be used, and yet obtain the same lineal h s hing pomt; While'the welt strip 'w extension of welt for the purpose of subse- S l id'in place, and h ld in a particular manquent attachment to the outsole. In carryner, according to this invention, while the ing out the novel method hereof a new rodt ching S it hes 2 are applied. not is produced. Other and further 'o jects Fig- 1 shows a work support or bumper A 0 and advantages of the present invention will mounted on a shank a, usually intermittently appear in the hereinafter following descriplooked forward, while the work or shoe bears; tion of an embodiment thereof, or willbe a against the bumper, as shown. The main parent to those skilled inthe subject; To t e guidance of the advancing shoe is through a attainment of such objects and advantages channel guide B formed at the lower end4f the present invention consists in the novel a shank-b,arranged to slide in the feeding weltiattaching method and product, and the direction and to swing,'so that the channel -novel features of operation, arrangement, guide may partake in the intermittent movements, as well understood. The needle C penetrates the welt and work between feeding movements. It is shown as a curved barbed needle carried on an oscillating needle block 0, and a needle guide C may be employed to brace the needle adjacent to the work. A'looper D is put through circular movements when the needle is advanced, as seen in Fig. 1, to lay successive loops of wax thread in the barb of the needle. The shank d of the looper is suitably connected to deliver the desired ldop forming movements to the looper. Another stitching instrument is the awl or feed point G, which is arranged to puncture the work adjacent to the channel guide and reciprocate with the channel guide to assist the step by step feeding motion of the work.

. The various stitching instruments described may be driven from a power shaft for example in a manner as disclosed in prior patents of Zaleski et al, Numbers 1,288,366 of Dec. 17, 1918 and 1,361,952 of Dec. 14, 1920. A welt feeding guide will be understood, although omitted from Fig. 1 hereof to avoid confusing the disclosure. Such welt guide should be of such character and so located and operated as todeliver the welt to the stitching point in the proper position and posture to carry out the objects of the present invention. Such a welt uide is already shown in prior application erial Number 21,544, filed Apr. 8, 1925, to which reference may be had for the details, and the same is indicated in dotted lines at H in Fig. 2. i

The principles of the present invention may be eiiplaine'd in connection with the diagrams igs. 4-7. ,Thus Fig. 4 indicates in principle the beveled welt 10 attached to the upper 1 by stitches 2. Fig. 5 shows the same on enlarged scale. The bevel w enables the welt when reshaped or beaten'to be tilted outwardly into nearly flat condition, as seen in Fig. 6, the stitches a partaking in the tilting action. Fig. 7 shows the principles of the present invention, in which an unbeveled or plain welt stri is held in a particular posture, namely 5 antingly, dur mg the formation of the stitches, so'that when the stitches a are applied they will pass cornerwise from a point at the outer face of the welt through the corner at the inner side of the welt and thence through the upper. To carry this out the welt guide H must be setat the proper angle or tilt so as to present the welt .to the needle to'permit the stitches to ass through cornerwlse, as

indicated, and t e welt guide must so posi-' tion the Walt that the inner corner thereof is substantially at the stitch line, as Fig. 7 in-v dicates, so that when at ached the welt may readily tilt about its inner corner to the desired flatangle for subse'quentattaohment to the outsole. The entry 'of the needle into the welt at the proper point may be facilitated by preformmg a gutter w at the outer side of the welt asindicated in Figs. 1 and 2, and this gutter also accommodates the finished stitches.

Referring'now to Fig. 1 it will be seen that the welt is so positioned and held during the stitching that the curved needle C entersthe outer face of the welt at a point somewhat inward of its edge, but passes substantially through the inner corner of the welt, and thence through the shoe upper and the insole lip. In this way a shoe welting machine may be made to carry out the principles of the present invention.

Afurther preferred mode of operation is that the awl G, when swung rearwardly is caused not merely to prick the insole lip, so as to take part in the feeding, but actually to penetrate through the substance of the insole lip, and to enter the material of the upper, as shown in Fig. 2. This mode of operation of the feed point or awl serves the double advantage of giving a better grip on the work and a more positive and satisfactory feeding action, and additionally preparing a substantial aperture, entirely through the. insole lip, andits lining, adapted to receive and facilitate the penetration by the needle on its next forward stroke.

\Vhen the welt has been stitched to the upper and insole lip as described, completely around the shoe, the latter is removed from the machine and prepared for the subse quent attachment of outsole. us as shown in Fig. 3 the welt w is reshaped or beaten into a fiat condition around the shoe, and as seen at the left side of the figure theextreme edges of the upper 3 and the insole lip a: are trimmed off substantially flush with the outer surface of the welt. Fig. 3 shows the disposition that may be taken by the described parts, and by the stitches a at this stage. Subsequently the space to between the insole and outsole may be filled with suitable filling material, and the outsole v applied and stitched to the welt, as indicated- -in dotted lines.

The shoe welt stitchin machines of the prior patents are adapta Is for this invention by dropping the welt guide so that the' top or inner edge of the welt comes closer to the stitch line, and tilting it to give penetration as shown in the figures where 3% strip is usually necessary to afford the proper welt extension, this invention will give the same extension by using 9 wide welt strip, thus saving width or over 10%, as before stated.

It will thus be seen that there has been described a welt attaching method, and the product thereof, embodying the resent invention. Since various-matterso operation. arrangement, combination and detail maybe modified without departing from the principles of the invention it is not intended to limit the invention to such matters except so far as set forth in the appended claims.

\Vhat is claimed is: i

1. The method of manufacturing a welt shoe comprising the step of stitching an unbeveled welt to the assembled lipped insole and lasted upper by holding the welt to the upper. with its corner adjacent the work substantially in the stitching line, and applying stitches slantingly through the body of the welt and through the corner thereof into the upper and insole lip.

2. The method as in claim 1 and wherein the stitches are produced by causingthe needle to enter the outer face of the unbeveled welt at a point removed from the edge and to penetrate diagonally toward the inner cor-.

ner of the Welt and thence through the upper and insole lip; followed by shaping the welt and attaching an outsole.

3-. The method of manufacturing a welt shoe comprising preforming a gutter at the outer face of an unbeveled welt at a point removed from the unbeveled edge, stitching i such unbeveled welt to theassembled insole and upper by holding the welt to the upper .with its corner adjacent the work substantially in the stitching line, and applying stitches slantingly into said preformed gutter and through the body of the welt and through the corner there-of into the upper and insole lip.

4. In a manufactured shoe the assembled and attached insole, upper and unbeveled welt, said welt having a preformed gutter in its outer face at a point removed from the unbeveled edge, with a, line of stitches each extending from said welt gutter diagonally through the welt and through the inner unbeveled corner thereof and through the upper and insole.

In testimony whereof, I have affixed my signature hereto.

JOHN ROGER OLIVER. 

